You have come a long way, LED bulbs.
Three years ago, we had to go online for LED lights. We risked early failure or "alien autopsy" lighting conditions.... and wet got fairly dim bulbs.
Today, I can walk into Home depot and get a 60-watt equivalent LED bulb (using about 8 Watts) for $20-40... with an expectation of further price drops. 3 years ago, I felt there was a need to "review" LED bulbs. Today, I get the off the shelf and they all work.
80-90% energy savings, no mercury content, no disposal issues, great light color.
Friday, June 10, 2011
Sunday, December 27, 2009
An update on LED light bulbs - a real estate agent toured our home recently and was (politely) horrified by the appearance of our LED light bulbs. For one fixture, she suggested we get mini lamp shades ... I am pretty sure to hide the bulbs. Link here: http://www.amazon.com/OFF-WHITE-CHANDELIER-CLIP-SHADES-CANDELABRA/dp/B001OM1ZSY/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1261952897&sr=8-16
The other non-fan of the 1.5W LED bulbs is my husband.
The other non-fan of the 1.5W LED bulbs is my husband.
Friday, May 29, 2009
LED light bulb upgrade - before
I am not a fan of incandescent bulbs. Before the upgrade, this fixture had 6 20W flame tip bulbs. (plus some burnt out ones to round out the look) I installed 12 candelabra-based 1.5W LED bulbs (Lights of America brand, found at Sam's Club or online). Total wattage is 18W, an impressive 85% reduction in electrical usage for this fixture. Color rendering is good - unlike the early Lights of America product I purchased in August, 2008. There is a slight "speckle" pattern on the ceiling, something I can live with.
The total upgrade cost was $60 - the candelabra-LED bulbs are cost competitive with candelabra-based CFLs.
I am not a fan of incandescent bulbs. Before the upgrade, this fixture had 6 20W flame tip bulbs. (plus some burnt out ones to round out the look) I installed 12 candelabra-based 1.5W LED bulbs (Lights of America brand, found at Sam's Club or online). Total wattage is 18W, an impressive 85% reduction in electrical usage for this fixture. Color rendering is good - unlike the early Lights of America product I purchased in August, 2008. There is a slight "speckle" pattern on the ceiling, something I can live with.
The total upgrade cost was $60 - the candelabra-LED bulbs are cost competitive with candelabra-based CFLs.
Friday, August 22, 2008
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
I am looking for energy audit software right now. We have a common problem, a 1973 house with some built-in energy inefficient features of that time. The two biggest problems are single pane glass (with built in storm windows - providing U values somewhere between that of single-pane and double pane) and no insulation in the walls. Both of these are fixable, but at a price.
We are fortunate to have a high-efficiency gas furnace, 5 year old higher efficiency AC system and fully insulated attic (the low hanging fruit of energy efficiency!).
... here are some online energy audit options I have found:
Zip code insulation program http://www.ornl.gov/~roofs/Zip/ZipHome.html
Fast AND easy to use. This program has simple, easy to understand suggestions for us:
1) Blow insulation into any uninsulated exterior wall cavity. R-13
2) Insulative sheathing on empty wall, R-5, but only if the exterior siding is removed for some other purpose - like a very costly siding replacement!
3) Basement wall interior - R-11. An option I am not thrilled with, because we just recently painted the basement. But we do have huge amounts of above and below ground basement wall. Did I mention the house is large?
Rehab Advisor http://www.rehabadvisor.pathnet.org/index.asp
Suggestions:
1) Insulate Attic - Insulate your attic to a minimum of R-49. Install vapor retarders in non-vented framed ceilings. (already done!)
2) Seal Duct Leaks - Have your ducts professionally sealed to reduce leakage to the ENERGY STAR specification of 10% maximum. 1.5 year payback expected
3) Insulate walls
4) Seal Air Leaks - Have a professional seal your home's air leaks. Typically, this reduces air leakage by 25%. Expected cost $554 with a 2.8 year payback
5) Windows and Skylights - When replacing your windows or skylights, choose ENERGY STAR qualified windows with a U-Factor of 0.35 or less and skylights with a 0.60 or less. Expected cost $744 with a payback of 2.4 years. [Clearly, this is extra cost for energy efficiency over the cost of a standard window replacement.]
6) Reflective Roofing Materials - When replacing your roof, choose reflective, light colored shingles to prevent increased heat transfer in the attic.
Home energy saver http://hes.lbl.gov/
This is a very detailed calculator, but it has some slightly confusing results. It predicts that upgrades to our home will drop total energy costs (gas + electric) from $3860 to $1549. The problem is, our actual energy usage is only about $2500 per year. (1100 CCF natural gas and less than 10,000 KWH electricity)
HES suggests Air sealing, high efficiency dishwasher and 3-pane low E argon windows.
Here is what it says about the windows:
"Estimated Annual Bill Savings: $98
Estimated Lifetime Energy Cost Savings: $2940
Upgrade Cost: $1681 above the cost of standard windows
Return on Investment: 4%
Upgrade pays for itself in: 17 years"
The HES program gives conflicting advice on R-11 blown in wall insulation.
We are fortunate to have a high-efficiency gas furnace, 5 year old higher efficiency AC system and fully insulated attic (the low hanging fruit of energy efficiency!).
... here are some online energy audit options I have found:
Zip code insulation program http://www.ornl.gov/~roofs/Zip/ZipHome.html
Fast AND easy to use. This program has simple, easy to understand suggestions for us:
1) Blow insulation into any uninsulated exterior wall cavity. R-13
2) Insulative sheathing on empty wall, R-5, but only if the exterior siding is removed for some other purpose - like a very costly siding replacement!
3) Basement wall interior - R-11. An option I am not thrilled with, because we just recently painted the basement. But we do have huge amounts of above and below ground basement wall. Did I mention the house is large?
Rehab Advisor http://www.rehabadvisor.pathnet.org/index.asp
Suggestions:
1) Insulate Attic - Insulate your attic to a minimum of R-49. Install vapor retarders in non-vented framed ceilings. (already done!)
2) Seal Duct Leaks - Have your ducts professionally sealed to reduce leakage to the ENERGY STAR specification of 10% maximum. 1.5 year payback expected
3) Insulate walls
4) Seal Air Leaks - Have a professional seal your home's air leaks. Typically, this reduces air leakage by 25%. Expected cost $554 with a 2.8 year payback
5) Windows and Skylights - When replacing your windows or skylights, choose ENERGY STAR qualified windows with a U-Factor of 0.35 or less and skylights with a 0.60 or less. Expected cost $744 with a payback of 2.4 years. [Clearly, this is extra cost for energy efficiency over the cost of a standard window replacement.]
6) Reflective Roofing Materials - When replacing your roof, choose reflective, light colored shingles to prevent increased heat transfer in the attic.
Home energy saver http://hes.lbl.gov/
This is a very detailed calculator, but it has some slightly confusing results. It predicts that upgrades to our home will drop total energy costs (gas + electric) from $3860 to $1549. The problem is, our actual energy usage is only about $2500 per year. (1100 CCF natural gas and less than 10,000 KWH electricity)
HES suggests Air sealing, high efficiency dishwasher and 3-pane low E argon windows.
Here is what it says about the windows:
"Estimated Annual Bill Savings: $98
Estimated Lifetime Energy Cost Savings: $2940
Upgrade Cost: $1681 above the cost of standard windows
Return on Investment: 4%
Upgrade pays for itself in: 17 years"
The HES program gives conflicting advice on R-11 blown in wall insulation.
Friday, August 08, 2008
Last week, an idea occurred to me - getting into the home energy audit business. There is a real need for this service here. I have been looking into what training is required.
There is a jumble of competing organizations in the home inspection certification business. I took the InterNACHI exam "only 40% pass" and completed with a passing grade while half asleep with no studying or other prep. Surely there is a higher standard?
It appears that in PA, I need home inspection licensing to do home energy audits.
AIA American Institute of Architects
AII American Institute of Inspectors http://www.inspection.org/
AIBD American Institute of Building Design http://www.aibd.org/ Membership $420 per year
ANSI American National Standards Institute
ASHI American Society of Home Inspectors http://www.ashi.org/
ASNT American Society for Nondestructive Testing http://www.asnt.org/certification/generalinfo.htm
BPI Building Performance Institute http://www.bpi.org/index.htm
EPBHI EXAMINATION BOARD OF PROFESSIONAL HOME INSPECTORS - National Home Inspectors Exam http://www.homeinspectionexam.org/ $225
EEBA Energy and Environmental Builders Association
IICRC Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification
InterNACHI - free online entrance exam http://www.nachi.org/nie.htm "only 40% pass!"
LEED Leadership in Energy Efficient Design
NAHI National Association of Home Inspectors http://www.nahi.org/
NACHI National Association of Certified Home Inspectors membership $289 per year
NCQLP National Council on Qualifications for the Lighting Professions
NATE North American Training Excellence
NERA National Energy Rater Association http://www.energyraters.org/
RESNET Residential Energy Services Network http://www.natresnet.org/ HERS Home Energy Rating System
Some training options:
AHIT Distance Learning Master Course $995 http://www.ahit.com/training/conted/index.cfm
Level I Infrared Thermography $1695 http://www.infraspection.com/courses_distance_learning_general.html
Infrared Inspections for NACHI Home & Building Inspectors $500
http://www.accustarlabs.com/training_classroom.php (Radon)
http://www.cmcenergy.com/ http://www.hometuneup.com/
http://www.homeenergy.org/contrainingguide/index.php#pennsylvania
Opinions sought - where does one start? What is the most important/best/most helpful home inspection nonprofit org?
There is a jumble of competing organizations in the home inspection certification business. I took the InterNACHI exam "only 40% pass" and completed with a passing grade while half asleep with no studying or other prep. Surely there is a higher standard?
It appears that in PA, I need home inspection licensing to do home energy audits.
AIA American Institute of Architects
AII American Institute of Inspectors http://www.inspection.org/
AIBD American Institute of Building Design http://www.aibd.org/ Membership $420 per year
ANSI American National Standards Institute
ASHI American Society of Home Inspectors http://www.ashi.org/
ASNT American Society for Nondestructive Testing http://www.asnt.org/certification/generalinfo.htm
BPI Building Performance Institute http://www.bpi.org/index.htm
EPBHI EXAMINATION BOARD OF PROFESSIONAL HOME INSPECTORS - National Home Inspectors Exam http://www.homeinspectionexam.org/ $225
EEBA Energy and Environmental Builders Association
IICRC Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification
InterNACHI - free online entrance exam http://www.nachi.org/nie.htm "only 40% pass!"
LEED Leadership in Energy Efficient Design
NAHI National Association of Home Inspectors http://www.nahi.org/
NACHI National Association of Certified Home Inspectors membership $289 per year
NCQLP National Council on Qualifications for the Lighting Professions
NATE North American Training Excellence
NERA National Energy Rater Association http://www.energyraters.org/
RESNET Residential Energy Services Network http://www.natresnet.org/ HERS Home Energy Rating System
Some training options:
AHIT Distance Learning Master Course $995 http://www.ahit.com/training/conted/index.cfm
Level I Infrared Thermography $1695 http://www.infraspection.com/courses_distance_learning_general.html
Infrared Inspections for NACHI Home & Building Inspectors $500
http://www.accustarlabs.com/training_classroom.php (Radon)
http://www.cmcenergy.com/ http://www.hometuneup.com/
http://www.homeenergy.org/contrainingguide/index.php#pennsylvania
Opinions sought - where does one start? What is the most important/best/most helpful home inspection nonprofit org?
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
More environmental doom and gloom today - the oxygen-depleted "dead zone" in the Gulf of Mexico is bigger than ever. Too much flood runoff, too much fertilizer ... and now 8,800 square miles of dead zone. Unfortunately, corn farming to make ethanol is a very messy practice, leaking even more fertilizer into streams, rivers, and finally the gulf of Mexico.
Closer to home, the Chesapeake Bay also has a dead zone also. link
We live in York County PA. The stream in our backyard flows into a small creek, which flows into a large lake (the public water source) the outlet of which makes it way to the Susquehanna and then to the Chesapeake Bay.
Most of the lawns in our neighborhood are very nicely groomed. A few times a year, a salesman from Chemlawn or a similar company comes by to "help" our lawn. They are very concerned - our lawn is at risk from an attack of grubs which could destroy it in just a few days. The salesman is often confused. Why does the largest lawn in the neighborhood not get the same chemicals that all the small lawns get? Why does this homeowner not conform to the neighborhood standard? I point to our pond - a 3/4 acre stocked fish pond in a suburban backyard. We do not fertilize our lawn to keep runoff from causing and algae bloom in the pond. The salesman responds "Oh, we can fertilize very carefully." They are not surprised to be sent away.
When we bought the house, the lawn was richly green - and so was the pond.
We have now set up a system where we can actually remove some nitrates from the stream water - a gravity fed 4" pipe brings stream water into the pond. Our pond plants are fertilized by the stream water, and excess water is discharged back into the stream. Last summer we were able to keep our pond water levels high despite late summer drought ... but our pond turned green.
Closer to home, the Chesapeake Bay also has a dead zone also. link
We live in York County PA. The stream in our backyard flows into a small creek, which flows into a large lake (the public water source) the outlet of which makes it way to the Susquehanna and then to the Chesapeake Bay.
Most of the lawns in our neighborhood are very nicely groomed. A few times a year, a salesman from Chemlawn or a similar company comes by to "help" our lawn. They are very concerned - our lawn is at risk from an attack of grubs which could destroy it in just a few days. The salesman is often confused. Why does the largest lawn in the neighborhood not get the same chemicals that all the small lawns get? Why does this homeowner not conform to the neighborhood standard? I point to our pond - a 3/4 acre stocked fish pond in a suburban backyard. We do not fertilize our lawn to keep runoff from causing and algae bloom in the pond. The salesman responds "Oh, we can fertilize very carefully." They are not surprised to be sent away.
When we bought the house, the lawn was richly green - and so was the pond.
We have now set up a system where we can actually remove some nitrates from the stream water - a gravity fed 4" pipe brings stream water into the pond. Our pond plants are fertilized by the stream water, and excess water is discharged back into the stream. Last summer we were able to keep our pond water levels high despite late summer drought ... but our pond turned green.
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